The Nanbu Maekake-Aprons, designated as the national important tangible cultural properties, were the aprons decorated with woolen embroideries on its hemp fabrics: the masterful method of textile combination that has been
unprecedentedly rare throughout history.
On the Pacific side of Aomori pref., known as the Nanbu district, where severe easterly winds and winter long weather afflict locals, the clothing culture has evolved with various embroidery techniques which expand fabric longevity and heat insulation. Under such situations, Maekake-Aprons were thus created for cloth protection. The exceptional handmade woolen embroidery techniques are found on the center hemp fabric between two cotton fabrics.
Up until the Meiji period, black and white cottons were the only materials to be embroidered on hemp in the Nanbu district. However, as time progressed, the availability of more colorful wool began to appear even in the farming villages during the Taisho period (1912~1926).
Wool is softer, warmer, and prettier: However, it was too expensive and luxurious for poor commoners to gain enough. Wool, a “fancy” material, was not suitable for working clothes as it was delicate and tore easier. For this reason it was used for designs on Maekake-Aprons.
Wool has more color variations.
Even though colorful wool was longed and coveted, women would unselfishly share with others. There was pleasure in collecting different colors and watching it piled in their small pockets. They expressed their universal desire for beauty and competed with one another in their embroidery skills upon the Aprons.
The woolen embroideries are raised from the hemp surface as if affirming its prominent existence. Since the excessive wool threads bundled together on the surface frayed easily, the woolen embroideries were sewn as if embracing the threads. Their unfailing respect and wholehearted sincerity towards wool are clearly reflected on it. Those women had untainted love and compassion to embrace and heal any pain, whether it was humans’ or wool’s.
Till this day it is a big surprise that those women already had
the quilting method knowledge of combining the cold texture of hemp and warm animal wool, and making the best of each apron; a one of a kind brilliant and harmonious work of fabric art.
People were forced to optimize every single resource in their poor life setting. The appreciation of the limited resources and their knowledge of creating interactive effects have contributed to the birth of the rare and most amazing combination of hemp and wool named gNanbu Hishizashi (diamond shape) Maekake-Apronsh.
Total 786 pieces of Tanaka's Kimono collections are designated as national important tangible cultural properties today. Amuse Museum exhibits approx. 37 pieces of the Nanbu Maekake-Aprons for the first time in history, selected by the owner himself, Chuzaburo Tanaka.
